The Journeyman Cook

From the outside, ABC the Tavern looks like any other tavern facade you might find on a city street. Large windows frame inset double glass doors. A canvas awning provides not only shade and shelter, but also acts as an underscore to the art deco-ish signage and  marquee-like stone work. It fits in with the West 25th Street vibe, but also gives you a clue that this is not any other tavern. This is a true neighborhood bar with a twist.

The room is long, but not too narrow, with a bar running along the left hand wall. A loft with a pool table overlooks the bar room and there is plenty of space to mingle, talk, or play a game of bowling on the machine that’s just inside the door. The warm, wooden bar back glows with neon lighting and is adorned with a mirror sporting an American Legion emblem and first-patron dollar bills giving it a distinctive hometown feel. The crowd is easy going and energetic and the staff is helpful, knowledgeable, and friendly. They treat you like you own the place. The menu is definitely above the usual bar fare, but not foo-foo or chic. You’re going to like it here.

Now I Know My ABC

This was my first time visiting ABC, having accepted an invite from Susie Sharp to be part of a group that would be the first to sample a “new secret dish brought from south of the border…Warning: home made pork belly bacon and other meats are involved.” How could I resist!

I walked in to see Renee and Susie seated at the bar with Alan Glazen, who is one of the owners. I was immediately immersed in choosing a beer as Dave Hridel volunteered his impressive knowledge of the eclectic selections. I settled upon a Flying Dog Brewery’s 20th Anniversary brew, Raging Bitch, a Belgian-style India Pale Ale, which gave Dave the opportunity to tell the story of how this beer was almost unavailable in Ohio because of–get this–the anatomically accurate illustration of the dog’s genitalia. Somehow I don’t think people drinking a beer called Raging Bitch are going to be offended by a drawing of a dog. But that’s just me.

While we waited for the rest of the tasters to arrive, Susie ordered a few selections that would serve as a prelude to the main attraction:
hand made potato chips, Mako shark bites with frites, and a few slices of the home made pork belly bacon.

The hand made chips were thin cut and cooked perfectly to a crisp finish. The accompanying sour cream dill garlic dip tasted terrific and complemented the salty chips nicely. This is what potato chips are supposed to taste like. The Mako shark bites were breaded, deep fried, and served with frites and tartar sauce. The Mako tasted great; light yet meaty, with a distinctive, pleasing flavor. An interesting option that is definitely off the beaten path. And then, the hand cured bacon.

The Sex of Bacon

ABC’s homemade bacon begins with a pork belly from the West Side Market, which is just down the street. It is cured, roasted, and cooled, then sliced thick, I mean like as thick as your little finger thick, and cooked on the flat top until it’s tender and juicy. The slices are thick, meaty, and well-cooked without being dry or crisped. The fat and muscle are well proportioned and on first bite you know this is something to be savored. The bacon melts away in waves of unctuous goodness proving once and for all why the pig is king. The taste is rich and full without being greasy. Yummy sounds abound as you reach for more, knowing full well that if you eat every piece, it would be a mistake. But only because it would be gone. This is tasting bacon for the first time. This is the sex of bacon.

The Pièce de Résistance

As Susie tells it, “It started in Tijuana and moved up thru San Diego into LA. I thought it was time to make an appearance on THIS side of the Continental Divide.” Dubbed the Danger Dog and brought to ABC, it is not a subtle item, so I won’t be subtle in describing it: it’s an all beef hot dog wrapped in bacon, deep-fried and topped with mayonnaise on a grilled bun. Served with frites or the aforementioned homemade potato chips, this is a meal you won’t forget. (The Danger Dog joins the Atomic Dog on ABC’s menu. The Atomic Dog is a jalapeño-stuffed, bacon-wrapped deep-fried dog served with Sriracha aioli. Sriracha, named for the seaside Thailand city of Si Racha, is made from sun ripened chilies which are ground into a smooth paste along with garlic, vinegar, sugar and salt. It’s a favorite among those who enjoy hot sauces.) The deep fried bacon dog has a terrific crunch which is accentuated by the creamy mayonnaise and the gilled bun. Nothing fancy, just a meat lovers blue collar kind of dish. You’ll have to sit down after eating this one. The price of the Danger Dog was equally surprising. You might expect to pay anywhere from $6 to $10 for a dog like this. At ABC it’s $4.

The Danger Dog is one of the most decadent things I’ve ever eaten and it was fun being one of the first tasters! Thanks to Susie Sharp for asking, to Alan Glazen, Dave Hridel, Ashley, Erica, and everyone at ABC for a fun evening. We will definitely be back. Maybe I’ll try the Atomic Dog next time…

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