A former Romanian Orthodox church-turned-playhouse in Cleveland’s Gordon Square Arts District served as the perfect venue for “Sacri-licious”, a little theater of the palate presented by Touch Supper Club Chef Jeff Fisher. As if any validation were necessary, Chef Fisher’s creations generated more than their share of deity-oriented responses. Fisher, who hails from Kingston, New Hampshire, learned to revere cooking with fresh ingredients from his mother, often using the family’s garden as a source. He began working in restaurants when he was 12 and eventually came to Ohio’s Ashland University to play basketball and football. Following college, Fisher worked at Cleveland’s Johnny’s Restaurant along side many top chefs where he began to appreciate ingredients from around the world. Chef Fisher has also been executive chef at Sushi Rock, Johnny’s Snickers, and Martini’s and was also a partner in a restaurant in Tremont for a short time. In addition to his duties as executive chef at Touch, Chef Fisher is also involved with the Chef’s Garden & Culinary Vegetable Institute in Huron, Ohio. There he assists in planning menus and preparing private dinners for exclusive events while having the opportunity to work alongside some of the best chefs in the country such as Charlie Trotter and Ferran Adria. Cleveland is fortunate to have him.

Communion

Wafer + House made wine

Chef Fisher began the evening by thanking his wife in true theatrical fashion. He hand-warmed a heart-shaped balloon that had been cooled in liquid nitrogen until it had expanded to full size and presented it to his wife. Then, wishing those in attendance “a religious food experience” he invited all to come to the front of the church for “communion” consisting of chicken foie gras with kumquat marmalade on a crostini served with a shot-sized glass of wine. It was aptly named and an apropos beginning to the upcoming shared-in-common meal.

Course 1

Hot tomato water with mini gnocchi, grape tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, Spanish cured chorizo, and a poached quail egg + El Diablo Ketchup Martini

Quoting Genesis, Chef Fisher intoned, “God said, ‘Let there be fowl to fly free across the land and let them live freely,’ which prompted the discussion of which came first, the chicken or the egg? Well, I think it was the egg.” Another noteworthy passage from Chef Fisher on this dish: the Pilgrims considered tomates to be the fruit of the devil and thought they were deadly poisonous, so  juice of the devil serves to combine with the egg of the fowl in a decadent cocktail served up with an equally decadent beverage. If you’ve not had tomato water and you love tomatoes like I do, this was a treat. Tomato water is easy to make and serves as a base for Bloody Marys, a flavoring for beer or vodka, a base for gazpacho or cocktail sauce, a poaching liquid for shrimp, calamari or lobster, a dressing for fresh oysters, a marinade for white fish, a vinaigrette mix-in, or drunk chilled and over ice with basil. Sweet tomatoey goodness with exploding grape tomato flavor bombs made this a heavenly dish. Coupled with the Touch-made ketchup and infused-pepper vodka Martini, it was a lycopene lovers dream.

Course 2

St. Germain cured salmon tartar, with squid ink tweil, savory lemon curd, caramelized sweet Maui onions & créme fraiche + St. Germain Lime Soda

“At the Last Supper, Jesus dined on fish and if I were having my last supper this is one of the courses I would have,” preached Chef Fisher from his culinary pulpit. It was a fitting intro to a wonderful dish. The squid ink tweil was the lynch pin of this offering and I was surprised at how it brought the entire dish together. I’d heard descriptions of squid ink as tasting inky or iodized, but the taste that I think best describes it is umami, sometimes described as a pleasant “brothy” or “meaty” taste. However you describe it , it definitely added a pleasant, savory element to the salmon.  St. Germain was bishop of Paris and was canonized in 754. In modern times he is known as “Father of the Poor”. As far as I’m concerned he’s also known as “Father of some pretty good cocktails”. The St. Germain Liqueur is made from wild elderflower blossoms that are collected by hand every Spring. It was very refreshing, in a decidedly Kramer sort of way. The company describes it as “neither passionfruit nor pear, grapefruit nor lemon, the sublime taste of St-Germain hints at each of these and yet none of them exactly.” Exactly. This was my favorite cocktail and dish of the evening. Until…

Course 3

Lamb carpaccio, tempura battered egg yolk, crispy fennel and shallots, Parmesan cheese and truffle oil + Catcher In The Rye

“The protector of the Israelites was the Lamb of God, so with that in mind I thought to do a lamb carpaccio,” evangelized Chef Fisher. He explained that he butchered a lamb ending up with about 15 pounds of meat that he would into a sausage style, froze it, and shaved carpaccio style. He also added, “I’ll never do that again!”  Believe me Chef, it was worth it! Served with a fresh baguette toast point, capers, and a Moroccan salt-cured olive,  the lamb was velvety soft and almost melted in my mouth. This was an inspired combination that evoked the words “Iron Chef-like”. Every bite was a perfect mélange of flavor and texture. I feel fortunate to have been present for this little slice of culinary enlightenment. The Cather In The Rye cocktail consisted of rye bourbon with a little balsamic fennel bitters which complemented the lamb wonderfully.

Course 4

Asian braised pork belly, with forbidden rice and blood orange star anise sauce, five spice cotton candy + Grapes Of Wrath

For this course, Chef Fisher played on the fruit of the vine and forbidden fruit mentioned in the Bible. “It’s never been precisely determined what that fruit was, but we believe it was grapes,”  he said. The Grapes Of Wrath cocktail reminded me of fall in Northwestern Pennsylvania, where the aroma of Concord grapes wafts through the air hinting at the fresh juice and jelly that is to come. With an ingredient list including grape vodka, sake, frozen grapes and Litchi syrup fulfilled the forbidden fruit role beautifully. As for the dish, the succulent, juicy pork belly and the forbidden rice–a lemon grass ginger sushi rice–along with the blood orange star anise sauce would have resurrected pure dining satisfaction in anyone all by themselves. The pasta cross was a playful touch, but the real surprise was the five spice cotton candy. It was unexpected, counterintuitive, out of context. And delicious. Taken together, this was another truly inspired combination that solicited praise from the pews.

Dessert

Beet foam with angel food cake, devil’s food cake, passion fruit coulis, with raspberry teardrops +Right of Passage

“There’s always an eternal struggle between heaven and hell.  You’re either going to go to heaven or you’re going to go to hell. If you don’t go to heaven or hell you’re stuck in purgatory. Sometimes when you feel like there’s absolutely no love in your life, things seem to break. There needs to be an equilibrium.” And throwing a frozen rose into the middle of the church, shattering its tender petals, thus spake Chef Fisher as an introduction to the final course of the evening. The beet foam was sweet and earthy, the angel food cake light and delicious while the devil’s food cake was rich and decadent. The “stigmata raspberry teardrops” signified the pain that the angels deal with in the “tyranny between heaven and hell”.  The Right of Passage cocktail consisted of two espresso-sized drinks signifying heaven and hell. The first, a warm plum brandy with caramelized sugar. The second, cold Grappa and Limoncello. Both were fitting bookends to the Biblically-themed dessert.

We came empty and left fulfilled; truly sated by Chef Fisher’s offerings. This culinary mass has ended. Go in peace.

What better way to beat the winter doldrums than by enjoying good food, good friends and good times at a great price–that’s what Downtown Cleveland Restaurant Week offers Monday, February 21-Sunday, February 27.

During that time you’ll find expansive prix fixe lunch and dinner menus, and a chance to experience some great beer, wine and food pairings throughout the week.  Also, you’ll find discounted $2 parking after 5 p.m. by a number of downtown facilities.

Highlights include:

Monday, February 21

• Vodka Tasting @ Corner Alley

Enjoy a vodka tasting at our Martini Bar from 4-6 p.m. The Corner Alley, 402 Euclid Ave., 216-298-4070, www.thecorneralley.com

Tuesday, February 22

• Chocolate Fountain Happy Hour @ Chocolate Bar

Join us for happy hour from 4-6 p.m. and delight in our complimentary chocolate fountain with tasty dippables. Chocolate Bar, 347 Euclid Ave., 216-622-2626, www.originalchocolatebar.com

• A Taste of Italy @ Chinato

Savor Italy’s best with a wine flight of either 3 reds or 3 whites included with our prix fixe dinner.

Chinato, 2079 East 4^th St., 216-298-9080, www.chinatocleveland.com

Wednesday, February 23

• Organic Cocktail Showcase @ Encore

Enjoy an organic cocktail included with purchase of prix fixe dinner at downtown’s leader in organic, sustainable liquors. Encore/Blue Bar at the Wyndham Hotel, 1260 Euclid Ave., 216-615-3307,http://www.wyndham.com/hotels/CLEPS/

• A Taste of Ireland @ Flannery’s Pub

After a tasty meal in our dining room, enjoy fine Irish whiskey by our fireplace. Learn about distilling and variations, brought to you by Jameson Irish Whiskeys and Flannery’s. $1/person includes whiskey tasting and appetizers. Limited availability; reservations suggested. Flannery’s Pub, 323 Prospect Ave., 216-781-7782, www.flannerys.com

Thursday, Feb. 24

• The Dog Days of Winter @ Wonder Bar

Beat the winter blues with our prix fixe dinner that includes a beer tasting with John Najeway from Thirsty Dog Brewing (beer tasting only is $5/ticket). Stay for live reggae with Dubflex from 8-10 p.m. For reservations email Andrea at kayakandrea8@gmail.com. Wonder Bar, 2044 East 4^th St., 216-298-4050, www.wonderbarcleveland.com

• Food and Abita Beer Pairing @ Fat Fish Blue

A showcase of Abita beers paired with tasty foods: SOS paired with crawfish, Restoration Pale Ale paired with crab cakes, Amber paired with BBQ ribs and Carolina mustard, Abbey Ale paired with BBQ ribs and Blueberry Habanero and Andygator Helles Dopplebock paired with BBQ ribs and traditional sauce. $7/person includes Abita souvenir glass and t-shirt. Limited availability; reservations required. Fat Fish Blue, 21 Prospect Ave., 216-875-6000, www.fatfishblue.com

Friday, Feb. 25

• Champagne Tasting @ Pickwick and Frolic

Join us for happy hour from 6-9 p.m. and enjoy a champagne tasting with appetizer purchase at Champagne Bar, the only bar specializing in champagne in town. Pickwick & Frolic, 2035 East 4^th St., 216-241-7425,www.pickwickandfrolic.com

• Sake Tasting @Sushi Rock

Sample assorted premium sake with your $30 prix fixe dinner. Sushi Rock, 1276 West 6^th St., 216-623-1212, www.sushirockohio.com

Saturday, Feb. 26

• Dessert and Martini Bar @ Cadillac Ranch

Don’t miss our special $30 prix fixe dinner that includes dessert and martini bar…and a ride on our mechanical bull. Cadillac Ranch, 200 Euclid Ave., 216-685-0000, http://cadillacranchgroup.com/cleveland.html

Sunday, Feb. 27

• Service Industry Night @ Greenhouse Tavern

Calling all service industry workers! Join us from 9-11 p.m. for a party in your honor with karaoke and $2 food/drink specials! Greenhouse Tavern, 2038 East 4^th St., 216-443-0511, www.thegreenhousetavern.com

For additional details on these events and a full listing of participating restaurants, visit www.downtowncleveland.com orhttp://downtownclevelandalliance.com/events/restaurant-week.aspx.

Going to a new restaurant is always fun, especially when you go there with good friends. But it’s even more satisfying when you know some of the people behind it and you see their hard work and dedication paying off in the form of terrific food, a gorgeous setting, and a slammed house.

One Red Door is the brainchild of Chef Shawn Monday, his wife and General Manager Tiffany Monday, and Designer Michael Schwartz all of whom are principals in the business. Shawn is the former chef and co-owner of near-by Downtown 140 who took over and completely revamped the former Vue space to launch this chef-driven, reasonably-priced tavern concept. (Their next creation, Flip Side, will be located right next door to One Red Door and will feature gourmet all-natural burgers with chef-crafted condiments. More on that later.) As you can see from the picture above the interior is rustic with a contemporary feel; it’s a warm, inviting space that feels comfortable the moment you walk in. But while atmosphere is important you go to a restaurant for the food and like the decor the menu does not disappoint.

We began with several starters for the table including

• Roasted dates stuffed with chorizo, manchego, and wrapped in apple wood bacon with smoked tomato;
• Pacific yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno salsa, extra virgin olive oil, citrus, and sea salt;
• Pan-fried shishito peppers, Parmesan cheese, garlic, lemon, and sea salt.
• Pan-roasted jumbo wild shrimp, crispy grits, creole tomato reduction, and charred scallion
• Tuna tartar tacos with wasabi guacamole, ancho chili, and crusted seared rare tuna with edamame salad

My favorites were the roasted dates and the shishito peppers. And the tuna tartar tacos. For dinner, selections included

I had the hanger steak which was cooked perfectly and complimented nicely by the veggies, salsa verde, and the crisp, flavorful pomme frites. Renée had the scallops which were terrific as well. The wine and beer lists are wonderful as is the service. Recommendations on the menu were spot on. There is also an interesting selection of martinis and mixed drinks; I had a Moscow Mule. Okay, I had several.

I could go on and on describing each dish in detail but I want to avoid the clichés usually found in reviews like this. All I’ll say is this: you will like this restaurant. With all the positive things happening on the restaurant scene in Cleveland it’s worth remembering that there are wonderful places like One Red Door just a short drive away. So go to Hudson and visit One Red Door; you’ll be happy with what you find there and you’ll want to return again and again.

When Renée suggested that I sign up for a Greenhouse Tavern Chef School Series class on butchering a whole pig, I jumped at the chance for several reasons. I love taking classes that have anything to do with food. I’ve taken classes on sauces, pasta making, and Italian cooking among others, and I always come away learning something that I can use in my cooking. I also want to learn more about charcuterie by making sausages, bacon, and other dry and salt cured meats, as well as learning confit techniques, and there’s no better place to begin than with pork. But ultimately, I was most excited about this class because it involved a locally farm-raised animal and because of the great respect I have for what Chefs  Jonathon Sawyer and Jonathan Seeholzer are doing at The Greenhouse Tavern.

If you didn’t know anything about The Greenhouse Tavern, you could, as Yogi Berra once said, “learn a lot just by watching.” Although not quite a year old, this unassuming eatery has quickly become another feather in Cleveland’s culinary cap, having been named one of Bon Apetit’s Top Ten Best New Restaurants in America, and is a popular spot along the rejuvenated East 4th Street. The food, of course, is fantastic, and the atmosphere is low-key, friendly, and casual. The name has significance beyond the first glance definition. The team at The Greenhouse Tavern are guided by two principles: “the idea that the proximity of the farm and soil to a restaurant correlates to the quality of its food and that environmentally conscious or green business practices are fundamental.” Collaborating with the Green Restaurant Association, The Greenhouse Tavern became the first certified green restaurant in Ohio. This approach resonates with me, not only in a business sense, but in a food and community sense as well. It’s meaningful, and that makes The Greenhouse Tavern the kind of restaurant at which I’m happy to spend my money.

Going Whole Hog

It’s one thing to see a nice, neat diagram of where different cuts of meat come from on an animal, but it’s no substitute for the real thing. If you’ve ever boned a chicken, carved a turkey, filleted a fish, or dressed a rabbit or a deer, you know how important it is to make the most of what the animal gives you. In the case of the pig, it gives a lot. Nearly every part of a pig can be made into something edible and I was excited to see the butchering process first-hand.

One of the best known Yorkshire pigs in popular culture is Arnold Ziffel, a long-running character in the 1960s rural sitcom Green Acres

Our farm-raised friend came from the Miller Livestock Company in Kinsman, Ohio. Miller produces cheese, grass-fed beef and lamb, and pastured chicken, turkey, and pork, and as been doing so without using chemical fertilizers, pesticides, hormones or antibiotics for over ten years. He regularly provides pigs, lamb, and beef to The Greenhouse Tavern and other restaurants in Northeast Ohio. Owner Aaron Miller was on hand to tell us a little about his farm and the pig about to be butchered. It was a 300 pound, 5 1/2 month old Yorkshire pig. The Yorkshire breed was developed in England and is thought to have first come to the US in Ohio in about 1830. Yorkshires are now found in nearly every US state, with the largest populations in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Nebraska, and Ohio. Yorkshires are muscular with a high proportion of lean meat. Miller’s hogs are pasture-raised and feed on fresh grass with grain supplements. Miller also takes great care to minimize stress for his animals. This is not only part of the humane treatment they receive, it produces a better quality of meat.

No Pig In A Poke

The class began with some Dino Torti Sparkling Bonardo, which paired nicely with the pork appetizers laid out for the class to sample while we waited for the chefs to begin. This terrific array showcased some of the ways a pig can be used and included cured pork, Devils on Horseback, and prosciutto, along with cheese on The Greenhouse’s signature grilled bread. The Bonardo is similar to a Lambrusco, although not as sweet, and Chef Sawyer explained that sparkling wines like these are sold in most Italian butcher shops because of their great pairing qualities with pork.

As Chef Seeholzer began explaining the process of breaking down the animal, it was interesting to note the tools that were laid out. Sturdy, stiff knives, a traditional butcher knife that Chef Sawyer preferred, several cleavers, and a few thinner, more flexible boning knives. Chef Sawyer also explained his preference for a Japanese style blade that is dull toward the heel so it can be used to separate bones and cartilage without damaging the cutting surface of the edge and tip.

Different grips must be used as well depending on what and how you need to make a cut. The usual pinch grip used when holding a chef’s knife changes to a four finger warp around the handle for general cutting, and an index finger extended along the spine for stability and control in making precise cuts.

When breaking down any animal it’s important to understand as much as you can about the animal’s anatomy. Knowing the bone structure helps you make cuts that separate the animal more easily and give you the most desirable cuts of meat. Simple techniques like moving the limbs to see the natural points of movement and the seams that movement creates tell you where you should cut.

Chef Sawyer talked about how the different parts could be used, including how the cuts are used in other parts of the world, and gave us many useful pointers that come in handy when buying pork. For example, when a recipe calls for belly you can substitute shoulder for about 1/2 the cost without sacrificing quality or taste. Chef Sawyer also talked about rillettes, Zampone, and various ways to confit different parts of the pig. Both confit of pork and rillettes are on my list to do at home as I continue to explore charcuterie.

This fine animal produced some wonderful butt, hams, chops, and of course, bacon. What was most interesting was the relative size of the tenderloin compared to the size of the animal. It’s small size and difficult location explain why it is so expensive when you buy it in the store. Chefs Sawyer and Seeholzer explained that this animal would serve the restaurants needs for the coming week. So if you want to be sure to get some good pork, dine early in the week before it’s all gone!

As Chef Seeholzer finished his butchering workout, Chef Sawyer demonstrated how he uses cures and brines to create terrific flavors, textures, and to preserve the moisture content of the meat. I’ve written before about my love of brining, but the great thing about brines and rubs is that although the recipes usually contain salt, sugar, herbs, and seasoning, the combination and variety of ingredients you can use allows you to experiment with many ways to  create terrific flavors.

Chef Sawyer’s Dry Cure Recipe:

The use of Muscovado in this recipe is an example of exactly what I mean about combination and variety. During the sugar making process, the juices extracted from the sugar cane are boiled and the crystals are removed to make refined white sugar; what’s left is molasses.  Most brown sugar is made by adding the molasses back to white sugar. Muscovado sugar is minimally refined and gets its flavor and color directly from the sugarcane juice. It is more moist than other brown sugars and is commonly used in baking and whiskey making.  It is dark, strongly flavored, and very sticky with large, rough, uneven crystals. The high moisture content and strong flavor adds a lot to this dry cure.

The head of the pig was submerged whole in a brine consisting of the following. You could use this brine for any part of the pig:

Traditional head cheese is made by boiling the head until the meat falls off the bone, but some chefs will de-bone the brined head, season it, then braise it in a sous vide bag low and slow for hours, then chill it for several days before slicing. Either way, it’s going to make for some good eats later.

In Hog Heaven

In addition to the wine pairings, the class included tasting courses prepared to highlight the pork cuts we saw being butchered. This was like a bonus, not only because we got to eat some really good food, but because Chef Sawyer was around to answer questions and discuss what we learned in the class. Here’s what we had:

Firsts: Local Pork (not) Belly En Papier with beluga lentils, fregola sarda pasta and confited onion – I’ve used this cooking method before and it’s easy and adds tons of flavor and this dish proves it wonderfully

Seconds: Spring Pasta with morel mushrooms, fiddlehead ferns, and crispy pork – I could eat this every day for the rest of my life and not get tired of it

Thirds: Pan Fried Pork Chop Saltimbocca with sage, country ham, pommes puree and red eye gravy – Fantastic chop, wonderful prosciutto, and the pommes purée and gravy were silky smooth and flavorful

Chef’s Dessert Selection: Hazelnut Brownie with Jeni’s Bourbon Buttered Pecan ice cream and caramel – I love hazelnut and the ice cream and caramel were rich and delicious

I anticipated the dishes so much that I neglected to take good pictures of them when they arrived. You’ll just have to go the the Greenhouse and experience them for yourselves.

Thanks to Chef Sawyer, Chef Seeholzer, and the rest of the team at The Greenhouse Tavern for putting on a terrific class and serving us so well. You’ll see me at one of the classes in the future!  Upcoming classes include Best of The Greenhouse Tavern on 4/18, Foraging Forest Food on 5/16, Roof Top Grilling on 6/20, and Sustainable Seafood on 7/18. Stay tuned to the Greenhouse Tavern blog for more info.

“I like pigs.
Dogs look up to us.
Cats look down on us.
Pigs treat us as equals.”

~Winston Churchill

From the outside, ABC the Tavern looks like any other tavern facade you might find on a city street. Large windows frame inset double glass doors. A canvas awning provides not only shade and shelter, but also acts as an underscore to the art deco-ish signage and  marquee-like stone work. It fits in with the West 25th Street vibe, but also gives you a clue that this is not any other tavern. This is a true neighborhood bar with a twist.

The room is long, but not too narrow, with a bar running along the left hand wall. A loft with a pool table overlooks the bar room and there is plenty of space to mingle, talk, or play a game of bowling on the machine that’s just inside the door. The warm, wooden bar back glows with neon lighting and is adorned with a mirror sporting an American Legion emblem and first-patron dollar bills giving it a distinctive hometown feel. The crowd is easy going and energetic and the staff is helpful, knowledgeable, and friendly. They treat you like you own the place. The menu is definitely above the usual bar fare, but not foo-foo or chic. You’re going to like it here.

Now I Know My ABC

This was my first time visiting ABC, having accepted an invite from Susie Sharp to be part of a group that would be the first to sample a “new secret dish brought from south of the border…Warning: home made pork belly bacon and other meats are involved.” How could I resist!

I walked in to see Renee and Susie seated at the bar with Alan Glazen, who is one of the owners. I was immediately immersed in choosing a beer as Dave Hridel volunteered his impressive knowledge of the eclectic selections. I settled upon a Flying Dog Brewery’s 20th Anniversary brew, Raging Bitch, a Belgian-style India Pale Ale, which gave Dave the opportunity to tell the story of how this beer was almost unavailable in Ohio because of–get this–the anatomically accurate illustration of the dog’s genitalia. Somehow I don’t think people drinking a beer called Raging Bitch are going to be offended by a drawing of a dog. But that’s just me.

While we waited for the rest of the tasters to arrive, Susie ordered a few selections that would serve as a prelude to the main attraction:
hand made potato chips, Mako shark bites with frites, and a few slices of the home made pork belly bacon.

The hand made chips were thin cut and cooked perfectly to a crisp finish. The accompanying sour cream dill garlic dip tasted terrific and complemented the salty chips nicely. This is what potato chips are supposed to taste like. The Mako shark bites were breaded, deep fried, and served with frites and tartar sauce. The Mako tasted great; light yet meaty, with a distinctive, pleasing flavor. An interesting option that is definitely off the beaten path. And then, the hand cured bacon.

The Sex of Bacon

ABC’s homemade bacon begins with a pork belly from the West Side Market, which is just down the street. It is cured, roasted, and cooled, then sliced thick, I mean like as thick as your little finger thick, and cooked on the flat top until it’s tender and juicy. The slices are thick, meaty, and well-cooked without being dry or crisped. The fat and muscle are well proportioned and on first bite you know this is something to be savored. The bacon melts away in waves of unctuous goodness proving once and for all why the pig is king. The taste is rich and full without being greasy. Yummy sounds abound as you reach for more, knowing full well that if you eat every piece, it would be a mistake. But only because it would be gone. This is tasting bacon for the first time. This is the sex of bacon.

The Pièce de Résistance

As Susie tells it, “It started in Tijuana and moved up thru San Diego into LA. I thought it was time to make an appearance on THIS side of the Continental Divide.” Dubbed the Danger Dog and brought to ABC, it is not a subtle item, so I won’t be subtle in describing it: it’s an all beef hot dog wrapped in bacon, deep-fried and topped with mayonnaise on a grilled bun. Served with frites or the aforementioned homemade potato chips, this is a meal you won’t forget. (The Danger Dog joins the Atomic Dog on ABC’s menu. The Atomic Dog is a jalapeño-stuffed, bacon-wrapped deep-fried dog served with Sriracha aioli. Sriracha, named for the seaside Thailand city of Si Racha, is made from sun ripened chilies which are ground into a smooth paste along with garlic, vinegar, sugar and salt. It’s a favorite among those who enjoy hot sauces.) The deep fried bacon dog has a terrific crunch which is accentuated by the creamy mayonnaise and the gilled bun. Nothing fancy, just a meat lovers blue collar kind of dish. You’ll have to sit down after eating this one. The price of the Danger Dog was equally surprising. You might expect to pay anywhere from $6 to $10 for a dog like this. At ABC it’s $4.

The Danger Dog is one of the most decadent things I’ve ever eaten and it was fun being one of the first tasters! Thanks to Susie Sharp for asking, to Alan Glazen, Dave Hridel, Ashley, Erica, and everyone at ABC for a fun evening. We will definitely be back. Maybe I’ll try the Atomic Dog next time…

It’s a Friday night in Cleveland and there’s no better place to be than at a corner bar with friends. Especially if that corner bar is Happy Dog.

The place looks like it’s right out of a bygone era: a center island bar surrounded on all sides by stationary diner-style stools and booths along the walls, wood paneling lending a warmth and feel to the room acquired only from decades of standing watch over loyal patrons, scalloped wood trim along the ceiling with red back lighting, a clock that could be in any school room.  And on this Friday, happy hour Polka music courtesy of DJ Kishka, who does it old-school with a turntable and vinyl. You’ll be singing “Who Stole The Kishka” for days to follow.

For these attributes alone this is a great place to hang out, but Chef/Co-owner Eric Williams of Momocho serves up the humble hot dog in cool and delicious ways. Along with a side of tater tots and a beer selection that includes Pabst Blue Ribbon, Stroh’s, Great Lakes, and a nice variety of Czech and Polish offerings, and you know all is right in Cleveland.

The dogs themselves are Eric’s own all-beef recipe inside a light casing. They are cooked on a griddle, not boiled or steamed, which gives each bite a nice crunch. Put that dog in one of the Chicago-supplied poppyseed buns and you’d have yourself an enjoyable treat. But the pièce de résistance are the toppings available to make your dog something special.

With over 50 toppings to choose from you could suffer from a serious case of analysis paralysis before finally deciding on your desired combination. Traditional toppings are there–ketchup, mustard, relish, chili, onions, sauerkraut–but at Happy Dog, the the traditional gets an upgrade with house made ketchup, black truffle honey mustard, “alien” pickle relish, habanero pickled onions, and vodka sauerkraut. Sauces include thai chile and garlic, Marcella’s grape jelly and chile, Oaxacan red chile and chocolate mole, and Kansas City style BBQ.  Marinated portobello mushrooms, creole remoulade, onions, kim chee, bok choy Coca-Cola stir fry, garlicky escarole , bourbon baked beans, applewood smoked bacon, Caribbean coleslaw, potato chips, cheese whiz, saffron aiolo, and a fried egg make for some interesting combinations.

Our waitress suggested chunky peanut butter and jelly with caramelized onions and Fruit Loops, but I went with one of Eric’s suggested combos: warm pineapple-ginger-currant chutney, caramelized onions, and French Brie cheese. With a side of cheddar cheese-topped tater tots and an icy-cold adult beverage, this is great bar food taken to a new level.

What completes the experience is a truly happy happy hour. With DJ Kishka spinning polkas, dancing, clapping, and singing along are the norm. Everyone who walked through the door was greeted with a hearty, “Welcome to polka happy hour!”, and the party just got larger. Polkas are like banjo music: you just can’t be sad when there’s a polka playing.

If you’re looking for a fun place, with great food and an atmosphere that will put a smile on your face, Happy Dog is it. You’ll find all the fun you can handle at 5801 Detroit Ave in Cleveland. Call at 216-651-9474.

Na zdrowie!