There are many things I love about Fall, not the least of which is that it ushers in a new season of foods that I love to cook and eat. Fall is a time for oven-baked comfort foods, fruit desserts, pies, soups, and stews, all centered around the terrific array of fresh ingredients in season this time of year.
I had the day to myself, as Renée was doing a show for her Silpada jewelry, and after putting the winter tires on the Mustang, I went out to pick up some fresh onions, garlic, and herbs. I also found some beautiful pattypan squash. The last time Renée and I went to the farmer’s market we got some lamb for stew and I decided it was a good day for shepherd’s pie and Apple Brown Betty. I love to cook for my wife and this was the perfect day to do it.
Shepherd’s Pie is traditionally made on Monday from Sunday’s leftovers, but with a simple ingredient list and the likelihood that elaborate Sunday meals are relatively infrequent these days–let alone any leftovers–this is great meal to make anytime.
Here’s what you’ll need for the filling:
- 1 1/2 pounds lamb (3 pounds of lamb shoulder chops trimmed of bones and excess fat will come close), cut into 1 inch pieces
- 1 1/2 t salt
- 1 t ground black pepper
- 3 t vegetable oil
- 2 medium onions, chopped coarse
- 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4 inch slices
- 1 medium garlic clove, minced or pressed through a garlic press
- 2 T flour
- 1 T tomato paste
- 2 1/4 c chicken or veal stock
- 1/4 c red wine
- 1 t Worcestershire sauce
- 1 t chopped fresh thyme leaves
- 1 t chopped fresh rosemary leaves
- 1 c frozen peas, thawed
And for the topping:
- 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 inch cubes
- 1 t salt
- 6 t unsalted butter
- 3/4 c milk, at room temperature
- 2 large egg yolks
- ground black pepper
I like dishes like this because they combine several cooking methods to make the most of the ingredients. No matter what cut of meat you use, cooked right, it will turn out tender and delicious. This is basically a lamb stew, so the rest of the players are chosen to complement the lamb by adding to the lamb’s rich flavor. Thyme and rosemary are strong enough to do the trick, and as always, fresh is better than dried. The carrots, onions, garlic, and peas add layers of sweetness and flavor, with the carrots and peas tossing in a little bright color for a good visual.
Season the lamb with salt and pepper and cook about half at a time in 2 T vegetable oil over medium-high heat until well browned, about 5-6 minutes per batch. Add another tablespoon of oil before the second batch.
When finished, remove the lamb, reduce the heat to medium and add the carrots and onions and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Then add the garlic, flour, and tomato paste and cook for another minute or so. Don’t worry if the mixture seems to too dry, because next you’ll whisk in the stock, wine, and Worcestershire sauce. Add the thyme, rosemary, and the browned lamb, bring to a boil, then reduce to low, cover and simmer for 25-30 minutes, or until the lamb is tender.
While the filling is simmering, cover the potatoes with water and add 1/2 t salt. Boil for 15-20 minutes until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife. Drain, then return the potatoes to the pan over low heat. Mash, adding the butter as you go. Lastly, add the milk and egg yolks along with salt and pepper to taste.
Set your oven to 400 degrees and make sure you have a rack placed in the middle position.Stir peas into the lamb mixture, then pour the mixture into 9×13 inch baking dish. You can also use a 10-inch pie plate. Spread the potatoes over the top of the filling with a large spoon, then use a spatula to smooth then out, making sure to seal the edges of the baking dish. Bake until the top is golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Cool for 5-10 minutes before servin g.
What I Liked
I love lamb, so finding fault with any lamb dish is tough for me. And although many cuts of lamb are used in Shepherd’s Pie, the stew meat worked well and was just the right size and texture for this dish. The flavors were rich without being overpowering.
Browning the meat first adds lots of flavor and helps the meat finish with just the right tenderness. The fresh onions and garlic, along with fresh herbs make a world of difference in this or any other dish. And the addition of the egg yolks to the potatoes helped give them more shape, texture, and flavor. The homemade veal stock cannot be surpassed by any store bought broth or stock. I am always surprised how it enhances the flavor of whatever I use it in.
For the wine, I chose Coppola Rosso Classic. It’s not only inexpensive, it’s a great every day wine made from a blend of red grape varieties with flavors of plum, cherries, mocha, and strawberry jam. It’s not too dry, not too sweet, and doesn’t have too many tannins. It’s a wine that agrees with my palate.
What I Would Have Done Differently
The recipes I saw for this version recommended using a 9×13 inch baking dish or a 10-inch pie pan. My choices were limited to a 9×13, a 9-inch pie pan, or an 8×8 baking dish. Had my 9×9 baking dish not broken recently, I think I would have used that. The 9×13 left too much area to cover with the mashed potatoes and too thin a layer of filling in the assembled dish. The result was still very tasty, but with so much area to cover, the potatoes didn’t seal well to the edges of the dish allowing the filling to bubble over onto the potatoes.
I was a little heavy handed on the seasoning to taste and the end result was a little peppery. I also think I’d up the tomato paste to 1 1/2 T and the wine to 1/3 c. A small amount of mint might be interesting in the dish as well.
What would you have done differently?
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